How To Remove Clevis Pin
Okay, then this post is built-in of a petty frustration I am having with the rear calipers at the moment.
I am relying on those of you lot with more experience/common sense than me to assistance me out hither...
I am trying to remove the rear calipers from my 1970 NADA 3500S - I am following the steps in the official Rover manual - at least I think I am.
In lodge to remove the caliper I must first remove the pads - so step 3 of the procedure for removing the pads says the post-obit:
"Remove the clevis pin securing the hand brake link lever to the R.H. caliper."
That'due south it, that's footstep 3... What step 3 fails to exercise, is tell you how. The diagram is straightforward enough, and seems to make sense, but practically speaking the clevis pin is most inaccesible :cry: . It's covered in twoscore years of route crap and in the most akward position possible.
Y'all may accept guessed that this is my first time tackling the rear calipers on the P6 - yous would exist right.
Delight share the commonage knowledge of years of disassembling these things with me - is in that location a technique, or a tool or a method that makes information technology slightly less difficult?? A big scale drawing in crayon may help me, please don't apply words with more than two syllables - the more than you can dumb it down for me the better :?
I did not think many kind or charitable thoughts about those clever Rover technology chappies who managed to reduce the unsprung weight with their awfully clever inboard disc brakes - help...
Thanks in advance.
Hello So Cal,
The clevis pins are a scrap similar a golf tees, except with apartment heads. When yous look at the handbrake linkage at the point where it meets with the r/h caliper, you will see the pin which is secured with a split pin. Remove the divide pin and withdraw the clevis pin. A pair of pliers can be handy for taking out the split pin, but the clevis pin can be removed past hand. Annotation any washers that may drop as you remove it, in that location are two.
As for seeing what you are doing, giving the whole assembly a good clean with some rags and turps or similar is your best bet. You accept hours and hours of fun ahead, and this is the easy part.
Hope it goes well,
Ron.
Ron,
That is precisely what I was afraid of...
I estimate the initial problem I am having is getting access to the divide pin - information technology seems very well protected, perhaps too well protected...
It doesn't present any particular problems that I've come beyond. The motorcar raised at a skilful superlative & solidly supported is the key to getting to the rear brakes. In fact I would imagine that your best option one time you've removed the handbrake mechanism is to drop the diff assembly complete with the calipers affixed.....assuming this wasn't already your plan.
It's how I did our 2200, though I did Bruisers with the unequal in situ:
Have you got the disc off and out of the way? If not remove them both discs and that volition requite you far meliorate access to the clevis pivot. Forget what the book says, which IIRC makes no mention of taking the discs off, only almost using the useless Girling "Special Tool". Once you go at the pin you may find the split pivot is so corroded in there that yous will accept to break off the head and legs of the split pin as close equally you can to go the clevis out and on to the bench and drill out the rusted remains of the splitpin.
[edit] Just noticed you want to remove the calipers, non merely rplace the pads, and then the discs should exist out of the way already, and y'all tin can remove whichever of the four clevis pins are the easiest to get at, it doesn't have to be the ones on the caliper, then you tin can sort it all when they are on the bench.
I know that quattro has washed a guide to refurbishing the rear calipers just the subject of how to remove calipers and change pads comes up quite a fleck. The procedure in the ROM appears to be overcomplicated and many people have their own views on how best to both change rear pads and/or remove rear calipers.
Would some kind soul like to do a definitive "How To" guide to replacing rear pads and/or removing rear calipers, preferably with accompanying pictures.
Purely selfish on my function as my rear pads are going to need replacing very before long 
Apologies for attempted thread hijack.......back to "Step 3. Remove the clevis pin........."
Dave
To modify the pads, jack up & support the rear end & go something comfortable to lie on & support your caput. Unbolt the halfshafts, let them hang from the wheels (you'll have to raise the dorsum of the car to go the ends out of the discs), then drib the discs & you accept splendid access to get to the pads. That's it actually apart from removing the handbrake mechanism & property it out of the way.
Refer to Harvey for adjusting the pads/calipers so you get a adept self-adjusting handbrake that doesn't exit the lever pointing to the roof-lining when it'southward applied.
Hijack away Dave - it is a good question and one that volition serve me well and help anyone else doing this for the beginning fourth dimension.
Alan
hi harvey,
all the californian cars i take fetched over and worked on don't have rusted on / in split pins , in fact if you were tight fisted, they could have been used again as they dropped out easily when straightened. alan's business concern was more in getting to them than getting them out.
ian
I hadn't even idea about where this detail car was TBH, they practice get rusty over here, merely as you say, not over there. He really hasn't got any excuses then.
Probably not worth my while importing cars merely to become a supply of rust complimentary split pins......
Ian,
You take striking the blast (or split pin) on the head - getting to the bugger is the trouble.
Harvey, although I had planned on reusing the split pin (due to its rust gratuitous nature and being slightly tight-fisted) in the consequence that I manage to get the b*st**d out I will forward you a 18-carat California split pin...
Alan
hi alan and harvey,
it's a great forum, made more worthwhile when you can have a good express joy with 1 another at different things.
alan, i know information technology's a long mode for you, but your not going to RA11 are y'all as information technology would be swell to come across you. as well when you practice get the b-----s off remove both covers, just but strip one downwards at once, and then you know where everything goes when yous put it dorsum together equally the first time is the nigh daunting when you remove that cover. harvey, myself and probably a few others after a few hundred or and then, you can do them in your slumber :idea: heed yous if i don't see some other one it will be to before long. oh damn got 1 coming from a customer to re-build for him. ringlet on the 28th holidays
josephp6man wrote,...
When I read Harvey'southward beginning post which mentioned all the rust and corrosion,...I thought...what rust!
It is the same here Ian, no corrosion to speak of. Must make working on Rovers in the UK a nightmare.
Ron.
No Ron, honestly it's a real joy :whorl: :wink:
We must detect you a expert Great britain car to work on some time. In technology you lot're ever taught on the hardest jobs first so yous come up to capeesh the easy ones afterwards :wink: Clearly you guys in dry states lack that sort of appreciation so we'll accept to make an effort to rectify that
Dave
My prefered method of restriction pad irresolute is to remove the outer pads, removed the slider?? for the inner pad and swing inner pad out. Because you have the outer pad off y'all can push the caliper upwards.
With a spiral driver or pokey particular of your choice wind only the adjusted. If you have the orginal tool requite it a become.
With the adjuster wound back and in the right position refit the pads making sure the inner slides freely along the reatining pivot if that is the correct proper name.
I may have remove the handbrake at the caliper/clevis pin. once or twice when doing the pads and pull it with the cablevision out of the way. It yous cannot get the pin out you can nip it and file it downwardly and then you tin pull the clevis pin out and remove the remnants in a vice.
Everone has a different mode of doing it. but i unremarkably reverse the back end of the car on to piffling ramps. It tin can be hard on the onetime arms equally they are out streched for a chip of time.
I don't take the discs off to do the pads. if you lot exercise you struggle a little to pull the one-half shaft dorsum in.
Removing calipers you can either remove the discs or go out them. I have done both ways more than one time. When removing them with discs fitted. Again back the motorcar on to ramps or axle stands, I and so accept the weight of the machine off the springs by jacking the body upwards. With this method I remove the handbrake linkage and pads. remove the bolts which swivel the calipers and disconnect the hydraulic pipes. I then pass i caliper over the diff and hey presto they are off. When putting them back I connect all the hoses and so sling them accross the diff and bolt them support.
Pig of a job either way but once you have done them in one case or twice yous get the hang of it.
Colin
Colin
A ratchet strap fastened to the elbow & the other side of the car does the chore of pulling it up to the halfshaft admirably.
So Cal, because the work that you have to acquit out on your car anyway, I personally don't think it's worth faffing about lying under the matter fiddling with the calipers in-situ. It doesn't take long to drop the unequal-unit consummate & you will soon realise & appreciate how much easier it makes the job (for the in-experienced P6 possessor :flash: ) when you've got the thing lying on the bench in front of you. You tin can give it a nice clean up & paint job as well.
I removed & replaced ours at the side of the route outside the house.
The Rovering Member wrote,...
How-do-you-do TRM,
Did yous have whatsoever assist with that in terms removal and especially refit? I am thinking of the diff mounting bolts, and how they could exist held from beneath while their nyloc nuts are tightened from inside the boot.
On the other paw, doing the rear pads with the calipers in situ tin all be done without any additional help.
Ron.
Leave the diff hanger in place, and merely drop the diff from information technology. I put Sparky's unequal in on my ain that mode.
Richard
quattro wrote,...
Hello Richard,
Yes,..that volition do it! I have not taken my diff out that way, hence I didn't think of it, and that was only once, over 20 years agone. I have helped with others, just the hanger was always detached from the body.
All the all-time,
Ron.
No, I did it without assistance though the missus helped with bleeding the brake organization. Judicious placing of a trolley jack aided proceedings, although I possibly got her to hold the spanner on the mounting bolts while I tightened the nuts (it would not exist essential though as at that place is always a fashion to agree a recalcitrent spanner in position). The diff hanger came off also.
But I too did a subframe bandy on our P5B without another human manus rendering assist, so anything is possible:
Source: https://classicroverforum.net/index.php?threads/step-3-remove-the-clevis-pin.29478/
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